Jayapura and Sentani
Jayapura is the capital of Papua, and lies on the north coast not far from the border with Papua New Guinea. It has something of a frontier feel to it, with many settlers who have moved from Java, but in other respects seems like a typical provincial Indonesian town. Surrounded by hills, flat land in Jayapura is at a premium and the main buildings like the banks and offices are near the waterfront. Many foodstalls spring up at night, known as warungs, offering a range of local specialities.

36km outside Jayapura, near the airport, Sentani is a small town overlooking a beautiful lake. Many of the hotels are based here as it is quieter than Jayapura. The suburb of Hamadi has an interesting market to explore, and a beach nearby is littered with the debris of an American landing in 1944 – decaying amphibious vehicles and holed tanks lie scattered across the sand.

We fly to the highland town of Wamena, situated at an altitude of 1,600m in the heart of the Cyclops Mountains. This is where we will see our first glimpse of the tribes of the Baliem Valley.

Wamena
Wamena is a small highland town which throws the contrasting cultures into sharp relief. The shopkeepers and tradesmen are virtually all Indonesian, and the traffic has to negotiate around tribesmen clad only in penis sheaths. The Dani come into town to view the mysterious trappings of civilization, they adopt a few things that might be useful, like metal axes or knives, and then they leave again. The cultures are poles apart, but they meet in Wamena, if only briefly. The market has some interesting souvenirs such as Dani string bags, stone axes, and grass skirts. There are a couple of places to eat out in town – the freshwater crayfish is a local speciality.

Baliem Valley
This dramatic and remote valley is the home of several highland tribes, many of whom who were only discovered by the outside world in 1938 when an American explorer called Richard Archbold first encountered them. Although they have adopted some modern tools, most still wear traditional dress – men wear a penis gourd and not much else. Some wear pig teeth in their noses for decoration and pig fat is applied to the hair to mould it into shape; they also cover themselves in a mixture of fat and soot. Women usually wear a grass skirt and often carry string bags hanging from their heads. The Dani are polygamous, and wives are paid for with pigs – the going rate is 5 or 6 pigs per bride, but this varies with inflation. There is a degree of equality though; the wife can change husbands as long as the pigs are returned in good condition. The Lani and Yali both have similar customs, and the Yali in particular are known for their war dances.

In many ways the people of the Baliem Valley live an existence little changed since Neolithic times. Many stone tools are still used, and some traditions have only recently been abandoned; the Dani no longer officially practice cannibalism – the last reported case was in 1988 – but it is entirely possible that in isolated areas it still occurs. Chiefs of the tribe are mummified by being smoked, the best-known being in the village of Akima. The tribes hold mock wars, largely ceremonial now but still fearsome to observe. One custom that has also been outlawed by the Indonesian authorities is the practice of finger-cutting. When the relative of a woman dies, she will go to a section of the riverbank where there is brightly coloured mud and smear herself with it, wearing the mud for up to a month. In special ceremonies sections of her fingers will be removed a segment at a time, cut off with a stone axe. Although illegal, evidence that the practice continues is seen frequently – many women are missing several fingers altogether.

Fly via Jayapura to the island of Biak, renowned for its unspoiled beaches. We stay in Biak Town, a small and attractive town positioned close to the best beaches.

Biak
A small town on the island of the same name, Biak lies to the north of the mainland of Papua. There’s an interesting market in the town, and several good foodstalls around the place. The island is known for its palm-fringed beaches, where white sands are washed by the clear, warm waters. Both Biak and nearby Supiori Island have nature reserves and are known for the extraordinary abundance of tropical birdlife. There are some dramatic caves on the island, such as the Blue Water Pond, with impressive stalactites and rock formations, and the Japanese Cave, so-called because the Japanese used it as a base in the Second World War – Biak was the scene of fierce fighting. The island is surrounded by coral reef, which offers spectacular undersea life. Visibility is excellent, and you are likely to see eagle ray, tuna, barracuda, grey reef sharks and possibly turtles.

Wandos
Just before Wandos lies the village of Sansundi where we will be staying. The accommodation is situated just 20 meters from the beach. There is no electricity in Wandos at present. The botanical gardens are opposite the accommodation. In the area surrounding the village there are hills which offer some good walks with spectacular views across the island to Biak City (on clear days) and the bay of Wandos. There are also countless tropical bird and butterfly species here, which it is possible to watch with a local guide. Just outside Wandos is a river which will bring you to caves with stalactites and stalagmites – the caves are reached by prauw (local small boats).